At Otrium, we are committed to a fashion industry where all clothing is worn. Our core mission is to connect excess inventory with its perfect owners, ensuring a win-win situation for brands and consumers alike, while preventing this unsold stock from finding its way into landfill. Alongside this mission, we aim to empower our customers to shop responsibly through our collaboration with Good on You, a leading impartial sustainability organisation that rates brands against three key criteria - labour rights, environmental impact and animal welfare. In line with this partnership, we are showcasing brands for whom sustainability is at the very heart of what they do.
This month, we meet Sofia Tahiri, CEO and Co-Founder of French sportswear brand Kysal, whose contemporary designs and technical fabrications are underpinned at every step by a commitment to more sustainable practices.
What does sustainability mean to you?
For me, sustainability is a holistic way of being. It’s about how I live my private life being as sustainable as how Kysal is run. I didn’t always feel like this, but I was thinking of starting a family and realised that I needed to be more conscious about the kind of world my children would be inheriting. Launching Kysal was a bit of a revelation for me in terms of wanting to live more consciously. I used to buy a lot of clothes in multiple different colours. Now I try to shop more responsibly by buying more expensive basics that will last - an outlook that I’ve brought into how Kysal creates its own season-agnostic lines. Beyond this, the personal mirrors the professional - I try to take short showers and have banished plastic bags from our home. Similarly, I run Kysal in a manner that is mindful of consumption and the kinds of materials we use. The two worlds are completely linked.
Tell us more about the brand!
I founded Kysal more than four years ago. I had just returned from a six-month university exchange programme in New York and was fascinated by the way that athletic wear was so ubiquitous in American wardrobes. When I was on my way to study, I had to walk past a gym, and noticed that people were going in in sportswear, but then those leaving would still be wearing activewear to go about their day. This way of dressing simply wasn’t the norm in France. When I returned home, I wanted to recreate this type of clothing but for a specifically French sensibility. In the US, there’s a more extravagant approach to dressing with really vibrant colours, whereas the French tend to have a more classic colour palette. The result was that I needed to make athletic classics with a twist, to bridge the gap stylistically. I also wanted the Kysal brand to have a strong sense of ethical responsibility, and was inspired by businesses such as Organic Basics - although they didn’t have sportswear within their collection at the time.
Tell us more about the start of the journey?
My biggest fear was creating the brand alone, but I didn’t have to look far because I found the perfect support in my husband. He believed in me and in this project, so we launched the brand together just as we were coming back from our honeymoon. There were challenges along the path, with the biggest one being facing our fear and quitting both of our jobs at the same time. We realised that the brand would need our full dedication and focus if it was going to work. Running a clothing label is not the sort of thing you can do at night and on your weekends. Letting everything else go all at once was a major leap of faith, but it was so worth it.
What achievement are you proudest of?
There were opportunities to produce our garments overseas for less, but we wanted to ensure a positive impact throughout the whole value chain by having 100% of our production in Europe. It was ethically important to us for a few reasons, with one of the big drivers being that we now only need to transport product by road, rather than by plane. We have also minimised the distances that these journeys cover by working within a relatively limited area within Europe, with the aim to lower our emissions.
Part of the first collection was made in Morocco, but now with a view to minimising our footprint, our fabrics come from Italy or Portugal. Production takes place in Porto, while our warehouse is in France. It was necessary for us to undertake production in Porto due to the specialist technical skillsets our providers have there in terms of working with our recycled polyester material. We have also reduced the number of intermediaries in our value chain to the smallest number possible, which allows us to deliver the best quality we can at the fairest prices, for all involved.
Lastly, it is worth noting that we endeavour to produce items that are seasonless classics that can be worn for lengthy periods of time. We wanted to create items that were less about seasons and trends and more about durability. The French market tends to favour classic taste, with many preferring to buy quality over quantity. This allowed us to work easily with more classic, basic lines that we sell throughout the year, therefore minimising overproduction. We also run small pop-up collections such as our Yogi Fit capsule. These are limited run projects that feature a small number of pieces, again to fit with our wishes to move away from overproduction.
How do you pick the best and most sustainable materials for your clothing?
We aim to use natural and organic fabrics wherever possible, and also work extensively with lyocell, a material made from wood fibres. We also use bamboo in the production of some of our garments - for example, a recent yoga line we designed. The benefit of working with bamboo is that, as a fast growing plant, it’s easy to replenish the supply that you consume quickly. One of our ongoing product development challenges is finding natural fabrics that conform to body shapes and maintain a tight fit, as required in sport. For this reason, we also work with recycled polyester when developing our lines.
The polyester we use is sourced from a company that reclaims bottles from the ocean. We work with a specialist in the field who has allowed us to use this material as a type of yarn that we use to knit our garments. Through doing this, we have no excess fabric as we only work with the amounts required for each garment. The items are also seamless - similar to tights and stockings - meaning not only are we conserving material resources, but they’re also extremely comfortable as athletic wear, due to seams not rubbing. Lastly, all of our products are OEKO-TEX certified, meaning they do not contain substances that are harmful to either the environment or the body.
Where do you see your brand in five years? What do you want to have achieved by then?
I have so many new ideas! Five years from now, I would love to have a bigger team working with me to create more products, including collections for men and teens, that stay true to our brand vision. We would like to be carried by more retailers, to make our product accessible to everyone, as well as having a store of our own where we can really showcase the brand vision.
What is one thing you hope others learn from your work?
There is often resistance to trusting small labels, with many people waiting until there’s significant brand recognition before buying from a company. However, when buying from small independents, you can be sure that everything that’s created has a personal touch and is made with real heart. Also, don’t be afraid to move away from trends and consume more consciously. Lastly, it’s important to believe that anything is possible with hard work. Even if you don’t succeed, see it as a lesson, not a failure.